All The Foods I’ve Loved Before: Pairing Uruguayan Tannat

Tannat at Artesana Winery. Photo Credit: Jill Barth

It was pretty much the full expectation, before my trip to Uruguay, that the country’s signature grape would have to be paired up with grilled meat.

And it’s true, Tannat and Parilla––meat cooked over an open fire––is very much a thing. But, it turns out Tannat from Uruguay is packed with freshness. To a wine, Uruguayan Tannat is not harsh––based on my recent tasting of around 120 wines from Uruguay, a large portion of them Tannat. This makes it an exceptionally food-friendly offering.

Tannat on the vine, in the spring, at Marichal. Photo Credit: Jill Barth

Late harvest botrytis Tannat. Photo Credit: Jill Barth

Carbonic maceration Tannat. Photo Credit: Jill Barth

Traditional method sparkling Tannat. Photo Credit: Jill Barth

Some excerpts from my tasting notes:

“satiating acidity, mineral earth + acid = elevated freshness”

“dried herbs and fruit, elegant and fresh”

“structure that keeps the fruit alive”

“fresh and juicy black fruit integrated with acid”

“fruit goes to structure then there’s a pop of clean acid on the finish”

“old world elegance and alive, gastronomic wine”

“high-quality tannins enlarge, then fade to acid and juiciness”

My point is clear, this defines expectations, at least it defied mine. As so, in the course of the trip I had fresh fish, french fries, baked cheese, dulce de leche, garden greens, sweetbreads, chicharrones, lasagne, empanadas, sausages, steak, tapas, grilled veggies, eggs, beets, caviar… you name it, I ate it. And with most of it, I paired at least a sip or two of Tannat.

My earlier experiences with Tannat were that of Madrigan in southern France and more so that of Virginia. It turns out that the Virginia Tannats have an interesting connection to Uruguay because of the moisture level present in the vineyards. In Uruguay, it’s in the form of rain. In Virginia, it’s in the form of humidity. Though one might consider Bordeaux to be akin––another Atlantic-coastal, rainy environment––Virginia seems to align more closely, not only in my opinion but also in that of some of the winemakers. “More close to Virginia than Bordeaux,” says Reinaldo De Lucca, director of De Lucca winery in Las Piedras, Canelones district. De Lucca says, “any Tannat should have mild, mature tannins.”

Agostina and Reinaldo De Lucca at their winery in the Canelones department in Uruguay. Photo Credit: Jill Barth

Pablo Fallabrino, director of Viñedo de los Vientos makes a natural Tannat, which I tasted at his winery, with Pearl Jam playing in the background and two cool dogs watching the front door. Anarkia is made with native yeast and cold filtered to clean, there’s nothing else but “grapes washed from the rain.” Fallabrino also makes a ripasso-style Tannat with grapes that have dried on the vine.

Pablo Fallabrino, director of Viñedo de los Vientos and his lineup. Photo Credit: Jill Barth

I also tasted a carbon-maceration “Beaujolais of Tannat” at Pizzorno Family Estates and a sparkling traditional method Tannat at Pisano Wines as well as their late harvest botrytis Tannat.

Carbonic maceration Tannat. Photo Credit: Jill Barth

Traditional method sparkling Tannat. Photo Credit: Jill Barth

Late harvest botrytis Tannat. Photo Credit: Jill Barth

I tasted the 1999 Preludio from Establecimiento Juanicó, chosen directly from the family cellar. Federico de Moura, the four-time winner of Uruguay’s best sommelier shared that the 1992 vintage of this particular wine was the first Grand Reserve of Uruguay. “Then we changed our mind,” says de Moura. “Not just rustic.” He called it a “game-changer” for Uruguayan wine.

Aged “game-changer” Tannat. Photo Credit: Jill Barth

At Bodega Garzón, further east in the Maldonado department, I tasted Balasto, a blend of 45% Tannat, 25% Cabernet Franc, 18% Petit Verdot and 12% Marselan. And while I’m not focusing heavily on Tannat blends in this piece, I want to note that this wine was served at a meal with Alejandro Bulgheroni, owner of Bodega Garzón.

Bodega Garzón owner Alejandro Bulgheroni with a bottle of Balasto served at a meal at the restaurant at the winery. Photo Credit: Jill Barth

I was fortunate enough to get a sample from Aguará wine, a limited-edition Tannat from El Capricho winery in the Durazno department, situated in central Uruguay. All of the wineries I visited were closer to the coast, near Montevideo or further east near Punte del Este. This was a good test to my theory, I thought.

And still: the freshness and quality acidity that I’d discovered through and through. There is beautiful dark fruit, complex and dashed with a hint of cocoa, dried herbs in the distance, tannins bowing to structure. Another beautifully food-friendly wine.

More About Uruguay

Why It’s Time To Try Sauvignon Blanc Wine From Uruguay

‘It Starts With Wine’: A New Documentary Series For Wine Lovers

Guide to Uruguay’s remarkable food scene

Cast in tradition: Uruguay’s Narbona Wine Lodge

An Insider’s Guide to Montevideo

Wine Pairing Weekend

Join us on our blogs and on twitter with the hashtag #WinePW to go behind the curtain on our discoveries:

Pinny at Chinese Food and Wine Pairings presents Uruguay’s Bodega Garzon Tannat Paired with Lamb Skewers and Beef Short Ribs

Camilla from Culinary Adventures with Camilla gives us Brined Quail with a Numbered Bottle of Tannat

Cindy from Grape Experiences provides Taste Uruguay: 1752 Gran Tradicion Montevideo 2017 and Pasta with Caruso Sauce

David from Cooking Chat stirs up BBQ Baked Steak Tips with Wine from Uruguay

Wendy from A Day In The Life On The Farm presents Food and Wine of Uruguay; Chivito Sandwiches paired with Garzon Cab Franc

Jeff from FoodWineClick offers up Picturing Uruguay with Lentil Stew & Aguara Tannat

Kat from Bacchus Travel & Tours hints at a Hidden Gem: On the Hunt for Wine from Uruguay

Jane from Always Ravenous stirs up Discovering Uruguayan Wine Paired with a Winter Plate

Steven from Steven’s Wine And Food Blog shares Tannat and Brazilian Feijoada #WinePW

Linda from My Full Wine Glass asks Meatless in Uruguay – Is that possible? #WinePW

Deanna from Asian Test Kitchen says Relax Your Mussels with Uruguayan Albarino

Sarah from Curious Cuisiniere pairs Tannat from Uruguay and French Cassoulet

Nancy from Pull That Cork gives us Uruguay: a Wine and Food Sampler #winePW

Gwen from Wine Predator shares Uruguay: Influenced by Immigrants #WinePW 

Jennifer from VinoTravels presents Bodega Garzón Tannat with Sausage Stew

Martin of ENOFYLZ Wine Blog writes A Taste of the #Food and #Wine of Uruguay

Nicole from Somm’s Table serves Two Rounds with Bodega Garzón Tannat: Chivitos and Chipotle-Coffee Flank Steak

Rupal from Syrah Queen is ready with Tannat – The National Grape of Uruguay

Here at L’Occasion, we roll out To All The Foods I’ve Loved Before: Pairing Uruguayan Tannat

MANY WRITERS, INCLUDING MYSELF, RECEIVED SAMPLE BOTTLES FROM INDIVIDUAL URUGUAYAN PRODUCERS, COORDINATED BY INSTITUTO NACIONAL DE VITIVINICULTURA (INAVI).

NO COMPENSATION IS EVER EXCHANGED BY AN ENTITY TO APPEAR ON L’OCCASION AND OPINIONS ARE ALL MY OWN. ALL PHOTOS ARE CREDITED TO JILL BARTH AND CAN BE USED ONLY WITH PERMISSION.